The First Step To Reclaiming Control Over Your Taxes!

Our clients who filed with us this year already feel the peace-of-mind that you were able to claim every possible deduction which is legally allowed in the tax code for 2011. After all, we put each return through an extensive review process to ensure you keep as much of your hard-earned income as the IRS allows. 

Taxes (Photo credit: Tax Credits)

But what about our non clients? And what about your previous years?

Well, since the filing deadline is already past us, they (and you) might think that the proverbial “fat lady” has sung on 2011 returns (and 2010 and 2009). Not so.

Because according to the most recent report on the matter, issued by the General Accounting Office, taxpayers overpay the IRS almost $1 billion every year due to incorrect itemization and preparation.

What’s worse is that those who prepared their own taxes (with a software, or on their own) are the most vulnerable, according to the report. But did you also know that taxpayers who used one of the “big chain” preparers are almost as bad off?

An excerpt from an additional report from the GAO: In a Limited Study, Chain Preparers Made Serious Errors

In GAO (United States Government Accountability Office) visits to chain preparers, paid preparers often prepared returns that were incorrect, with tax consequences that were sometimes significant. Some of the most serious problems involved these preparers…

1.  Not reporting business income in 10 of 19 cases;
2.  Failing to take the most advantageous post-secondary education tax benefit in 3 out of the 9 applicable cases; and
3. Failing to itemize deductions at all or failing to claim all available deductions in 7 out of the 9 applicable cases.

So what can your friends do about this? And what could YOU do about it, if you didn’t have us handle your taxes in prior years? Simple: file an “Amended” Return.

Many tax businesses don’t provide this service, but even though we’ve completed our clients’ returns, we WILL review any of our non clients’ returns–at no charge.

Seven Audit Red Flags

One of the “hidden” benefits to using a good pro to file your taxes is that we have a hair trigger for avoiding things which might cause an audit.

And I thought that ALL of my clients and contacts would benefit from some (but not ALL) of our little internal list of what we look for, to make sure that clients are doing what they can to keep from getting socked with a notice.

Here’s what we (AND the IRS) look for …

Seven Audit Red Flags
1. Indefensible claims
There are so many old wives’ tales saying that certain items trigger an audit: home office deductions, passive losses, schedule C (sole proprietorship) activities, etc. But you really can’t predict the trigger (and you can drive yourself crazy trying), but you *can* adopt the “be reasonable” mantra about every item on your return (with our help, of course), including these. So if you don’t have a decent claim for a home office, we’ll help you not to claim it. If your money-losing sole proprietorship is really more a fun hobby, treat it as such.

Look–don’t be scared to take deductions and losses you’re entitled to, but don’t take tax positions you aren’t comfortable defending. If you take reasonable tax positions, you’ll likely find you won’t end up needing to defend them. And if you do face an audit, it will likely be far easier.

2. It doesn’t all add up.
This seems like it should go without saying, but make sure you add, subtract and multiply accurately. Check your numbers through each step and do some simple math checks when you finish. If you do make a math mistake, you are likely to get a math correction notice from the IRS. This isn’t an audit. But our goal is to minimize your interaction with the IRS bureaucracy, which, ah… isn’t known for the best mail handling practices.

3. Lost 1099
This can be confusing, because the Form 1099 comes in many varieties, including 1099-INT for interest, 1099-DIV for dividends, 1099-G for tax refunds, 1099-R for pensions and 1099-MISC for miscellaneous income. These forms are sent by payers of such funds to both you and the IRS.

So regardless of how many 1099s you receive, make sure they all are accounted for on your return. There are also Forms 1098 which lenders send (to you and the IRS) recording how much interest you paid. The IRS matches your return against the 1098s and 1099s. So one sure way to guarantee an IRS query is to fail to account for something! If a Form 1099 is wrong–say it reports more income than you had–you can explain or deduct it on the return, but you need to first report it.

4. Suspicious OVER-reporting
I’m not talking about under-reporting income, or holding necessary information back. But you’d be surprised how many professionals and amateurs alike try to submit too much *supporting* information. True, if your return is complex, you may need to add explanations or disclosures in footnotes. Be concise, truthful and accurate, but don’t provide copies of sales agreements, settlement agreements, bank statements, etc., unless you are later asked to by the IRS.

Disclosures can be made on regular paper or special IRS forms. A Form 8275 “Disclosure Statement” on plain paper can be used any time you need to disclose something that can’t be adequately disclosed on the forms. Form 8275-R “Regulation Disclosure Statement,” is for disclosing positions that are contrary to IRS Regulations or other authority. You shouldn’t be filing a Form 8275-R–or taking a tax return position that would require it–without professional help.

Frankly, though, any disclosure statement should be checked with someone who can take you by the hand and ensure it’s done properly (ahem).

5. Fighting unnecessary fights.
Here’s where some of our clients have gotten in trouble in the past, despite our admonitions: If you take reasonable tax positions, and complete your return accurately, checking your math, why should you pay a bill if the IRS sends you one? Frankly, it’s a matter of practicality (and wisdom) rather than principle. It just doesn’t pay to fight with the IRS on small matters. So don’t get into the bureaucratic system and risk bigger problems for a few dollars. Just pay it and move on.

6. Ticky-Tack Prior Year Amending
Here’s the reverse situation of my previous point: amended returns are reviewed much more regularly than initial returns. So if you forgot a deduction or otherwise think you can get a small amount back by amending, think twice before amending your return (i.e.–consult with a pro). Consider whether you might have bigger problems if other matters on your return, unrelated to the amendment, are reviewed. Yes, you can win a battle…and lose a larger one.

7. Trying to go it alone.
Yes, this is a bit self-serving — but I’ll also make a “damaging admission” here: some tax professionals argue that a return prepared by a professional is less likely to be audited.  However the facts are that there’s little reliable data to support it. That being said, having a professional prepare your return will give you the added firepower of years of experience in handling such matters in your corner.

So to absolutely ensure that whatever happens, you’ll have such a someone at your side — and that your back will be guarded on the front end, give us a call: 847-243-3600.

And a last word: No matter how careful you are, there’s no way to guarantee you’ll never have a tax controversy. Sometimes your number just comes up. But when your number is called … make sure you aren’t alone.

Identity theft credit repair scams can cost you dearly – Does this hold true?

Do you have bad credit score and have you been turned down by multiple lenders during a loan application? Thousands of Americans have poor credit score and are looking for ways to refurbish their score and emerge credit-worthy. However, as there are an increasingly large number of people who are rushing to credit repair agencies, the credit repair scams are also on a rise. Just as identity theft can take a toll on your personal finances and push you deeper into the vicious debt cycle, credit repair scams can also prove to be harmful for your current financial state. When you’re subject to identity theft and when a person impersonates you and uses your credit card, it is most obvious that he will purchase a lot of things with the card. When you’ll get your credit card statement, you may come to the realization that you’re unable to repay the debts; and this will hit your credit score. What will you do then? How should you go about repairing your credit?

What is identity theft credit repair?

Though the legal process of identity theft credit repair may take a lot of time and can be strenuous, recovering the lost identity and regaining normalcy can be done in order to boost your credit score in the long run. When a person goes for credit repair, his ultimate objective is to remove all the erroneous information that is dropping down your score. You can negotiate with the credit bureaus thereby proving that you were a victim of identity theft. You may also state that all the charges made with your card are not yours. When you’re successful, this will help boost your credit score.

The first step that a person should take is to contact all the creditors and inform them of your situation. You need to tell them that all the purchases shouldn’t be authorized and the credit should be immediately suspended. Call any of the financial institution and negotiate with them so as to improve your credit score and emerge creditworthy once again. If you’ve been a victim of identity theft, you can contest any item on the credit report in order to remove the inaccurate information that is unverified. The credit bureau usually has 30 days to verify all the details of your credit report and up on request, all the errors are deleted from your report.

Signs of a credit repair scam – Awareness can make you alert

As mentioned earlier, the credit repair scams are on the rise and this is the reason why most of them are meeting with unsuccessful results. Here are some signs of credit repair scams that you can stay aware of.

• When you aren’t given a copy of the contract before you’re asked to sign it.
• When the contract doesn’t contain information of the amount that you’re being charges and the details of the actions that are being taken on your behalf.
• When you aren’t given a copy of the Consumer Credit File Rights under the Federal and state law.

• When you’re asked for the payment and the charges before the actions are taken.

What to do when you’re scammed?

It may happen that you’re subject to credit repair scams but you shouldn’t let the credit repair scams to get away with this. If the information is wrong, you should exercise your right to file a dispute so that the harmful negative information does not hurt your credit score. You can report to the State Attorney General and also visit the National Association of Attorney General’s website to file a complaint. The FTC can also be reported against such scams.

Since you know that identity theft can cost you dearly in the long run, getting an upper hand over the scams can help you breathe easy. Go for credit repair and boost your score so as to grab loans at the best possible rate.

Neil R. Williams is a financial writer, a market analyst and an member of DebtCC community. He consults and writes on global finance. Moreover, he discusses matters with respect to debt consolidation, credit repair, tax and so in the commutity forum. Please follow http://www.debtconsolidationcare.com/ for more updates.

The Six Best Ways to Beat Credit Card Debt

The national average credit card balance for 2011 was $6,576, down from $7,404 the previous year — and while it’s certainly nice to see improvement, I also know that any kind of debt can feel like you have Justin Tuck climbing on your back. (That’s a New York Giants reference, by the way. Google him if you must. Not a small man.)

So, you may be in a better situation … it may also be worse. So, to answer the questions we often get around here from clients facing tough times, I’ve put together a step-by-step process which we often help people work through.

1. If you ever hope to pay off your credit card debt, pay more than the minimum payment each month.
If you only pay the minimum payment each month, your bill could continue to INCREASE, even if you completely stop using your card. This is called “negative amortization”–where you think you are paying on your debt but the additional fees and finance charges are more than the minimum payment. The bottom line is: Pay more than your minimum or you will eventually be in debt over your head.

2. Implement a regular *system* for credit card debt reduction.
With online banking and automatic payment options, there are GREAT tools for ensuring you don’t mess up because of administrative chaos. If you feel you can’t manage all your bills by pen and paper, there are several good software programs available for keeping track of your financial records.

In fact, I recommend that you automate a payment ABOVE the minimum monthly payment, just to be certain that you start getting ahead of the game. Those minimum payments are rigged against you, and the only way to get ahead is to … get ahead. I have some more thoughts on automation in a moment.

3. You can negotiate with your credit card company.
No, you do not need to be an attorney or other professional to negotiate with your credit card company (you will need patience and persistence though). The rising amount of consumer debt in this country has made creditors realize that they need to be more understanding of their customers — if they hope to get any money back. If you file bankruptcy they are only going to get pennies on the dollar, so they are willing to make deals.

4. Write letters to each of your creditors acknowledging your debt and the situation, and tell each one when you can begin repayment.
Open communication always helps. Usually credit card companies get ignored and end up sending delinquent files to a collections agency. So they’ll actually appreciate your openness in contacting them and may be more understanding of your situation. Proactively dealing with your debt problem rather than hiding will not only help your financial problem but make you feel better about yourself.

5. Keep track of what you are able to pay each creditor every month.
If you are not able to pay the full amount of your credit each month, you still should still pay something to stay on top of it. You should work off a written budget so you know exactly where you stand. Some experts suggest that you divide your monthly debt budget by the percentage each bill makes of the total and pay that amount.

Here’s an example: If you owe a total of $1,000, and one credit card is $800 and the other is $200, and you only have $100 available to pay for that month… You should pay $80 on the $800 balance, and $20 on the $200 balance. This way you are reducing each debt by the same percentage.

6. Don’t fall prey to intimidation tactics
No matter how forthcoming and honest you are, some creditors have been taught to be mean and downright nasty. Hang in there and don’t let this tactic intimidate you.

Lastly–don’t let the IRS be one of those creditors. Let us help you this tax season, and THAT will be one less creditor to worry about, I assure you! You can reach us at 847-243-3600 or email us at Howard@savemoretaxes.com

Financial Resolutions for 2012

Kaufman’s Financial Resolutions for 2012

Here’s the thing about most financial resolutions: They don’t usually last even until the end of January. That’s because making a permanent change in our behavior requires both time and a steely resolve. But I’ve found that we can develop financial character one action at a time. That is why I am giving these out now so you can really get going.

So in that vein, here are some financial practices to take you from pauper to prince or princess if you add one each year. If you’ve already got one down, move to the next on the list.

#1 MOST CRITICAL: Resolve to become (and stay) debt free. Now, I’m not Dave Ramsey, but there’s a reason why he’s become so popular: his approach works. I’d say that  you can have a fixed-rate fixed-year traditional mortgage on your house — but nothing else, please. No equity line of credit on your house. No car payments. Certainly no credit card debt. Because you simply have to learn to live within your income — which, unfortunately, sometimes means going without. The millionaires among us really are frugal. So learn to enjoy that process, and it’s a fantastic start.

#2 Automate your savings (AKA Pay Yourself First). You can start by getting the entire match if your company offers a 401(k) plan. Usually this translates to saving 5% of your salary while the company contributes a 4% match, which is the fastest way to get an 80% return on your money. Most Americans forgo this match, believing they need to spend 100% of their salary. But you can learn to think like a millionaire and live well on 95% of what you make.  If you don’t have a 401(k) plan, act like you do, and sock away 5% automatically by following step 4 below .

#3 Fully fund your 2012 Roth IRA. This is $5,000 in 2012 and $6,000 if you are older than age 50. If you can’t manage the entire amount in January, put in $416 monthly. Automating deposits in an employer-defined contribution plan is easy. Fortunately, automating saving in a Roth IRA or a taxable savings plan is equally painless. Most brokers offer an automatic money link between your checking account and an investment account. Set your savings on autopilot, baby!

Remember — these steps build off one another, so if you already have done the first 3, here’s your next step:

#4 Save another 5% in a Private Reserve Strategy. This is a strategy designed to help develop or improve one’s financial position by avoiding or minimizing unnecessary wealth transfers where possible, and accumulate an increasing pool of capital providing accessibility and control.  Want to know how to set one up,  give us a call at 847-243-3600.  Do it now!

Let us know how you are doing.  Leave a comment below.

Two Common Estate Plan Myths- Busted

As of this writing, it’s a fact that almost 60% of Americans don’t have a basic will, and that’s a big problem.

One of the big reasons that most families don’t yet have this kind of plan in place is because of some incorrect thinking about whether it’s right for them, or if it’s even necessary. And sure –some people just haven’t gotten around to creating a will or trust. Others think they don’t need an estate plan because they’re not “rich”.

But here’s the problem–if you continue without an estate plan, you could leave a legacy of bad feelings and attorneys’ fees.

So I wanted to speak to some of the more common misconceptions out there. I’ll start with a couple big ones this week, and when the time is right, address a few more in 2012…

MYTH #1: Only rich people prepare estate plans.

Do you own ANYTHING? Because if so, you need a will. You see, a will allows you to designate who will receive your property should anything happen. Continuing without one ensures that your assets will be distributed under the terms of your state’s “intestate succession” laws. That means your money and property could end up with family members you haven’t spoken to in years, instead of who you’d really like to see control your assets.

I won’t go into all of the different components of a will, trust, health care directive etc., as my purpose here is to emphasize that failing to plan is simply a decision to trust your assets to government bureaucrats who don’t know you from Adam.

Even if you think your situation is pretty straightforward, you may feel more comfortable hiring a lawyer to guide you through the process.

MYTH #2: Everything goes to your spouse, if something happens.

Unfortunately, that’s not always the case. We deal with clients from different states around the country, and state laws vary. In fact, in most states, if you continue without a will (intestate), your inheritance will be divided among your spouse and your children. In New York, for example, when someone dies intestate, the spouse gets the first $50,000 of the estate and what’s left is divided 50-50 among the spouse and the children.

You can imagine how this could create all kinds of problems, particularly if your spouse was financially dependent on you or you have children from a previous marriage.

I’ll send a few more in the future, but I hope you can already see that things are not always as we “think”. And let’s take advantage of tax season and move towards getting this done (or updated) in 2012!

To your family’s financial and emotional peace…

Let me know if you agree by leaving a comment below.

Check out some of these articles for further reading

Related articles

• Why you should write a will (telegraph.co.uk)
• 5 Reasons You Need a Will (fpaforfinancialplanning.org)

How to Profit from Today’s Economic Chaos

Ok… this is one of the coolest “projects”
I’ve ever seen…

It’s pretty obvious that the big-shot bankers
on Wall Street have been getting richer and
richer during this economic crisis, while your
friends and family members haven’t.

Well this really ticked-off my friend Mike Dillard,
(who made his first million by the age of 26),
and he’s basically started a “movement”,
in order to even the score and allow the rest
of us to profit from the current economic chaos
just like they are.

Despite the fact that he’s not an investor, trader,
or financial guru of any kind, he’s made a
300%+ return since 2008, while the rest of the world
has lost 30-40% of their portfolio.

How?

Get this… He found a “map” back in 2007 that’s
allowed him to basically predict the financial future.

Like I said… VERY COOL… (And yes, it’s the real deal).

Anyway, he recorded a three-part, “Year-In-Review”,
video series this month showing how he’s managed
to discover and use these little-known investment
strategies, and has decided to share it with the
public over the next few days.

I just finished watching Part I here about his economic
predictions for 2012, and it’s a MUST WATCH. Just copy and paste this in your browser.

http://theelevationgroup.net/yearinreview/index.php?a_aid=156393&a_bid=418a665e

I’d have to say my favorite part about his strategies
is that you don’t need to be a trader, and you
don’t need to be rolling in money. All you need is
the desire to learn how the rich are getting richer
these days, so you can too…

You can watch all three videos along with me this
week by going to his site with the link below.

http://theelevationgroup.net/yearinreview/index.php?a_aid=156393&a_bid=418a665e

Enjoy,

Howard

Valuable Lesson on Retirement

Below is a link to an article on a couple fully retired- but will they keep their success?

Check out the link below and pick up a valuable lesson. We offer a free consultation and you can see if you are ready for retirement or not in a matter of minutes.  We have helped people save thousands on their retirement planning.  Check out the story and come back to us for your personal no obligation review.

: http://cnnmon.ie/sgeB1E

If this bubble don’t burst, it’s going to be scary

Higher Education Bubble Blooming

According to the most recent College Board Annual Survey of Colleges, the sticker price of a college education keeps rising, faster than the price of groceries, health care and almost everything else in the basket of goods used to determine the Consumer Price Index (CPI). In the last 10 years, in-state tuition and fees at public four-year colleges increased 5.6% annually on top of a CPI growth of 2%. The average estimated total expenses for most public in-state four-year students (depending on the state) vary in the astounding range of $65,000 to $90,000.

S0, that means that if you were blessed with the birth of a child recently, you will need to save $430 monthly to pay for in-state college tuition, fees, room and board. Double this rate to cover the full costs at the average private institution. And this doesn’t even include money for a cell phone, pizza, room decor or other stuff that college students deem “necessities.”

Now it’s true: most students don’t pay full price for college. In 2009-10, undergraduate students received an average of $12,894 in financial aid, split almost equally between loans and grants. Grants are the most attractive because students are not saddled with a repayment plan after college. Federal grants make up 26% of total aid. Institutional college grants account for 17%, state grants for 6% and private and employer grants (scholarships) for 4%.

But that hasn’t stopped the fact that students are graduating with larger debt loads than they were 10 years ago. This is one of the driving factors of the recent-graduate-laden Occupy Wall Street movement. Public four-year college borrowers graduate with an average of $19,800 in debt; their nonprofit private college counterparts graduate owing $26,100. This private college debt is 17% more than it was 10 years earlier, even after accounting for inflation. In addition, a growing percentage of all college debt is unsubsidized and begins accruing interest immediately.

Perhaps there are some good things which are shaking out here. That is to say, degrees might have to be evaluated a little more closely — that anthropological art history degree might should be scrutinized a little more, yes?

So, students will have to make smarter education choices. Today’s global marketplace places more value on hard skills such as engineering, computer technology, teaching and finance. Technical degrees and certificate programs will become commonplace. A liberal arts education will likely diminish in popularity and become more focused at the elite institutions. More students are likely to begin their education at lower cost community colleges and complete a four-year degree at schools that specialize in their concentration.

Parents may feel overwhelmed about the amount they need to save for college. But college education is one of the two lifetime investments for which we approve borrowing money (the other is a home mortgage). Students should plan to graduate with a debt load no higher than half of what they can reasonably expect from their first year’s salary. For example, those with a starting salary of $40,000 should keep their debt at or below $20,000. Thus graduates can dedicate 10% of their annual salary to school debt and pay it off in five years.

New parents who are able should immediately begin saving $430 a month for college. Alternatively, a onetime $50,000 investment should cover tuition, fees, room and board at an in-state college 18 years from now. Yes, this is pretty scary. But there’s other options…

Giving a child the gift of a college education and a debt-free start to adulthood is one choice. Other parents believe their children should participate in financing their college education and can apply the 50/50 savings approach. Parents commit to saving half of the money needed, and their children commit to the other half. Students participate by working hard in high school, applying for scholarships, taking summer jobs, seeking out work study opportunities and accepting reasonable loan levels.

The support of grandparents can help tremendously. The vast majority of the college accounts that I’ve seen are owned and funded by grandparents. Instead of buying the latest gadgets for their grandchildren, they make annual contributions to a college savings account. If the grandparents own the account, it has the added advantage of not being included as a resource on the student’s financial aid forms — and that is a beautiful advantage, trust me!

One last thing: I’m not a stocks advisor, but–I do NOT recommend prepaid college tuition plans. At best, they tend to match college inflation, and if used at an out-of-state institution, returns are based on money market rates, which are abysmally low right now.  Even worse … who knows? This bubble may just burst, and you don’t want to have locked into a tuition which might fall through the floor on its own some years from now.

I do hope this helps, if it didn’t scare you too much! Let me know if there’s anything I or my team can do to help. As you can see, both with taxes and family finances, we make it our mission to think ahead on your behalf!

Warmly,

Howard

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The Rental Decision Part II

The Rental Decision

Long-time renters often cite all the negatives of home ownership, and there are some to be sure.  But many of these oft-cited reasons have a valid counterargument OR these old paradigms are no longer accurate:   In our last blog we talked about the conception that owning a home is more expensive than renting.  Let’s look at some other conceptions.

Current Conception #2: Homeowners Have to Pay to Maintain a Home Instead of the Landlord. Put aside the premium you might pay if you got in a bidding war over a home or made some upgrades to your home that weren’t necessary. Simply baseline the same property and look at renting versus owning it. Everything you pay for as a homeowner, the landlord has to pay for as well.  Who do you think pays for that? Do you think the landlord pays for snow removal, replacing carpets, fixing leaks and a new roof every 15 years out of the goodness of their heart?  No — you pay for it!  It’s all priced in over long-term rent trends. Landlords are in this business to make money and if they weren’t making money they wouldn’t be landlords.  You are paying to put their kids through college and for their Caribbean vacations.

Basic economics dictate that over a long period of time, you are losing money by renting, not just because you’re not building any equity, getting a mortgage tax deduction, etc., but because you are paying for the upkeep, depreciation expense and maintenance of the home in your rent — PLUS a tidy profit to the landlord.

Many renters are convinced they’re “beating the system” because they don’t have to pay for these things, but they are — it’s just not itemized out in tidy fashion for them.  It’s all in the rent.  This is logic — and reality.

Current Conception #3: Renting Provides for Much More Flexibility to Move. This is a major (and legitimate) reason NOT to own.  After all, closing costs, transfer taxes, realtor fees and such are nothing to sneeze at.  However, what a lot of renters end up doing is deciding to rent instead of own, but then they never move!  They end up renting for years on end when they could have owned.

And that flexibility? Well, the landlord also has the flexibility to keep increasing prices year over year at whatever rate they so choose — which then requires a calculus on your end as to how much of an increase makes it worth moving out, in order to just rent somewhere else.  Additionally, you’re often locked into an annual lease (which isn’t very flexible), they can sell the home or put new tenants in each lease cycle (which isn’t very flexible), and you can’t do many things to the place you live in without their permission, or perhaps not at all (not very flexible).  So, you’re trading the  slight mobility flexibility for a lack of flexibility in virtually everything else that the landlord controls.

To reiterate, if you’re a current renter, you may feel this Note is critical of your situation. It’s not.  It’s an economic reality that many Americans never have had, or never will have the economic means to be a homeowner. This is a mathematical certainty. The point here is to get my clients and friends thinking who DO have the means to save for a down payment, and who may be better off financially as owners than renters… but who continue to muddle along in complacency because they’ve convinced themselves that homeowners get hosed and renters have all the perks.

If you’re especially interested in math, here’s a helpful exercise for you to consider.

http://www.khanacademy.org/video/renting-vs–buying-a-home?playlist=Finance

Lastly, I’m here to HELP you, only and always. Let us help you through the important financial decisions in your life, while taking a holistic view of ALL of the costs.

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